The result should look overexposed, but the darker portions of the scene should feature plenty of detail. Then reduce your shutter speed by a stop or two and take a photo. Keep your ISO, aperture, and point of focus consistent. Once you’ve successfully captured a file with detailed midtones, move on to the next step: Step 3: Take an overexposed and an underexposed image If your image is very dark or very bright (i.e., exposed for the highlights or the shadows, respectively), I’d recommend adjusting your shutter speed and reshooting. The midtones should be well exposed, while the highlights and shadows are much less important. Review the results on the back of your LCD. If your shutter speed is below 1/60s or so, make sure you use your camera’s two-second timer or a remote release to prevent camera shake.įinally, take your first shot. Once you’ve set up your shot, take one last look at your camera settings. Switch your lens over to manual focus – you don’t want the point of focus changing between shots! – and adjust the focus ring until you get the result that you’re after. Here, it can help to look at your camera’s exposure bar, which is generally visible at the bottom of the viewfinder. Choose a shutter speed that gives you a balanced exposure (that is, make sure you expose for the midtones, not the highlights or the shadows). Set your ISO at its lowest value to prevent noise, and choose an aperture that gets you your desired depth of field (I often shoot at f/8 to f/11, but you can go wider or narrower depending on your goals). First, adjust your camera mode to Manual you don’t want the exposure changing from shot to shot. Once you find a scene that could benefit from a high dynamic range treatment, mount your camera on your tripod and determine your composition (the way you would when capturing a normal, non-HDR shot). Step 1: Set up your cameraĪs I emphasized above, it’s important to keep your camera steady when shooting HDR, so if you’re planning to use HDR techniques, make sure you own a decent tripod. In this section, I offer clear, step-by-step instructions for creating an HDR image, including both file capture and processing. Keep this in mind as you embark on your HDR editing journey, and you can easily avoid the pitfalls of the “bad HDR” look. Yes, it’s important not to take your HDR editing too far, but the good news is that modern post-processing programs excel at producing natural and realistic-looking results. However, it’s crucial to recognize that there are many flavors of HDR editing, and it is very possible to use HDR processes to create images that accurately reflect what your eyes saw when you originally captured the shot. This tarnished the reputation of HDR photography as a whole. To make matters worse, these photos sometimes featured unpleasant artifacts such as halos and noise. The resulting images appeared extremely unnatural, with grungy tones, excessive contrast, and an abundance of detail in the highlights and shadows. When HDR first became popular, photographers often utilized the technique in an obvious and over-the-top manner. While HDR photography is a perfectly legitimate technique frequently used by professionals, it has unfortunately gained a negative reputation in many photography circles. But when in doubt, you can always shoot a few bracketed exposures that way, when you arrive home, you can decide whether you captured enough detail in one of your shots or whether you need to blend the files together. Of course, it’s impossible to say for sure whether a scene will benefit from an HDR treatment, and camera sensors are steadily getting better at handling high dynamic range scenes.
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